Subject: A man just walked by carrying a freshly chopped-off cow's head (on his head).

Hamjambo rafiki.

There's so much I could tell you, I don't know where to begin. I'll just start with my day today and work backwards, until my fingers get tired, or you get bored, whichever happens first.

Today is Independence Day in Tanzania. My fellow volunteer Youko (a Japanese-American from San Pedro, CA) and I went into town and were picked up by the man who runs the shelter where we volunteer. The kids from the shelter were performing today at a special event for the holiday. (More about them later.) We drove to a wide open dirt field where many people had gathered. It was adjacent to a very poor part of town - what we would call a shanty town almost. When Youko and I got out of the car, at least one hundred children of all ages instantly surrounded us. If you want to know what it feels like to be a rock star or movie star, just come here. The kids didn't want anything from us, they just wanted to be near us, to touch us. I started shaking the hand of one, and soon I had at least 10 kids on each hand. With another 50 circling me, just looking at me, smiling... Some called me "mzungu" which means "white person", others called me "mwalimu" which means "teacher". Some tried to impress me with their English, and I tried to impress them with my Swahili - neither of which is in fact impressive. They asked my name, they asked where I was from, they asked for the name of my father, then the name of my mother (You should have heard them trying to say "Ruth" - They don't have "th" in their language, and Ruth proved quite comical and the source of much laughter.)

I sang a few songs for them, took their picture (which they loved). It was quite an experience. Then Youko and I were escorted to some chairs under a tent next to the dais - Even though no one knew we were coming, the simple fact that we showed up made us guests of honor. It was a hot morning, so a chair in the shade was reserved for us and for local politicians. There was a lot of African music, and of course I started dancing in my chair, to the delight of many women and children in the audience. I'm not sure if they think I'm crazy - quite possibly they do - but they definitely find me amusing and frequently give me the thumbs up. We then had to listen to a political speech (given by the regional director of Kilimanjaro - a woman who was treated with great respect). Her speech was endless, and I thought she would never shut up. Youko and I got out as soon as we could without causing an international incident. But I would have sat through 10 of those speeches just to have the experience with all the kids beforehand.

Let's see - what else? The insect of the day is a Fear-Factor-esque slimy worm with wings. Maybe it's a locust? It buzzes about with big wings, but it has no legs, so it land with a thump, then has to worm around awkwardly with its wings flopping about. Runner up for insect of the day: the beetles, which are like small dinosaurs.

The insects aren't that bad really, and the mosquitoes are no problem. I sleep in netting, and wear 'buzz off' clothing. Most days I don't even bother with repellent. I think I've gotten a couple bites, but they are hardly noticeable.

The people are very friendly. One person heard I was from American and came over to express his condolences for Katrina and Wilma, which I though was incredibly touching, especially since this entire village is always in something akin to a post-hurricane state. Another woman kept saying a Swahili word I couldn't understand, and she kept repeating it - Only after about 10 times did I realize she was saying Schwarzenegger. She asked if he was a good "Senator" from California.

My throat is burning a bit today. At first I was afraid I was getting run-down, but I quickly realized it's from all the dust. The roads here are not only bumpy and treacherous, they are also asphyxiating - Every time a car passes, it's as if Pig-Pen just ran by.

In the afternoons, we have lectures and orientation. One day we had to go into the neighborhood and stop at any random stranger's house to visit. By ourselves or in pairs. The other volunteers were somewhat terrified at the thought of barging into the home of a stranger who speaks minimal English, and ask to be invited inside, but I enjoyed it so much I did it again yesterday by myself. It's a great way to practice my Swahili. Everyone is always welcome in any home in Tanzania - especially visitors. (The other volunteers have labeled me "the ice-breaker" - one British woman here commented how I get things going, then shrink back. "You're the first in the room, though not the first one on the stage", she said to me one day. This is an interesting opportunity to see how strangers view you.)

Another day we had a lecture about AIDS and infectious diseases, which they are working hard to combat. Yesterday we had a lecture about family structures. It is so complicated here. Polygamy is accepted, but practiced only by the Muslims. Young women can be kidnapped for marriage, widows can be turned over to their brother-in-laws whether they want to be or not, yet rape is punishable by 50 years in prison, and the word of a grandmother is stronger than the law of parliament. It's a spider's web of tribal laws, both matriarchal and patriarchal, all confused by modern influences, poverty and AIDS - all of which eat away at traditional structure. Circumcision occurs at adolescence - without anesthesia. Homosexuality is against the law. Female genital mutilation has been outlawed, but some tribes out in the bush don't ever hear about government laws, so they continue the practice. There are many grass roots organizations at the local levels trying to fix all these things - working to empower women, protect children, and fight poverty and disease. But things move slowly here. For example, if someone says they will meet you at 9 in the morning, you should show up around 10 or 11. It is called Tanzanian Time. I don't know how people ever meet up with each other. When you make an appointment, you must ask several time if they really mean what they say, or if they mean Tanzanian time. It's great if you're one of those people always running late back home.

Tuesday I started my job. En route, we drop off the other volunteers (Mine is the last stop). One stop is the Green Nursery School. If only you could see it, you would never want to leave. It's my favorite part of the morning. It was started by a man at his home. It's an unregistered school - just a guy trying to help out. It's a mud-building down a long (dusty) road in the middle of nowhere, and the kids (4-6 year olds) come running out to greet us. These kids have the biggest smiles on their faces - they are all so beautiful. They can't wave their hands fast enough, they practice their English greetings - they are so excited when we drop off the volunteer, and they continue waving as we drive away. These kids have nothing. Nothing. And they are the happiest beings on the planet. You can learn more from them in 30 seconds than you can learn in a lifetime.

Then it was time for my stop. The TunaHAKI Centre for Street Children. I was a little disappointed at first - no children came running, it was very quiet. The man who runs the shelter is very soft-spoken and I wasn't quite sure what he expected me to do. After a bit, I got around to meeting the kids, who were busy tending to the chickens and goats. (There is itinerant poultry everywhere in Tanzania. The roosters still drive me crazy at night. I'm the only person in the country who is anxious for the bird flu to arrive.)

There are normally around 18 kids at this small shelter, but half of them have left for the Christmas holiday. The kids are runaways, orphans, or abandoned children. Those who were abandoned reunite with their family for Christmas, then will return in January. Right now, there are 9 at the shelter - they have nowhere to go. They range in age from 6 to 15. The kids specialize in dance and acrobatics. Of the 9 currently at the centre, 7 do acrobatics. My friend Karen had loaned me a book of old Muscle Beach photos which I brought with me, and it has completely altered my experience here. To say that the kids were excited by the book would be an understatement of gargantuan proportions. They devoured it, poring over each page, studying each pose then eager to try and copy it. I was able to show them a couple simple moves which they loved, and which immediately established me as a hero. In fact, when I was done working out with them, they picked up my shoes and carried them inside for me - a sign of great respect. These kids are not your average kids. They are so polite and respectful, so well-behaved... They practice for hours each day, they are so disciplined. It's amazing. It's so hard for me to believe they were once on the street, or are living in a shelter in hand-to-mouth conditions. They work hard, keep their surroundings clean... The man who runs the shelter is a truly good man, and he has taught the children well. They are far better behaved than most American children.

Youko teaches them English and then I help them practice acrobatics. Sometimes we take a break to sing songs, or swim in the nearby stream. The Swahili language doesn't have the "er" sound, so they call me "Fi-fah" in a thick Swahili accent.

The job is what I want to make of it - I could simply play with the kids, I could paint the building, I could help them advertise... They are a nonprofit, with little funding. They sell vegetables from their garden and some livestock to support themselves, and they get small donations whenever they are able to perform at local hotels. One of the volunteers is turning 25 next week, so I have arranged for the kids to perform at the party, which should help them make a little bit of money. (They are creating a special birthday routine for her - really sweet.)

The man who runs the shelter attended a college of arts - where he learned acrobatics. He started by teaching a few street kids, and soon others joined. It was his way of keeping them off the streets He hopes to add music and art to their learning and repertoire, but he doesn't have anyone to teach them those things right now. During the school year, he sends them to school.

Since I can do whatever I want, I have decided to think big and focus on one goal: to fly the kids to the USA for a week, to study with professional acrobats. It would not only be thrilling for the kids, but it would show them that there is a future in their talents if they continue to work hard. It will also be a source of great publicity here in Tanzania, and once people hear that these kids got to go to America on a trip, more people will ask them to perform (meaning more revenue), and more kids will want to join the shelter (meaning fewer kids on the street). I will have to raise about $20,000 to cover airfare... the rest will fall into place. I have already contacted Cirque du Soleil. I didn't tell them my exact plan - I just sent a brief email asking who I would contact for support. They wrote back that they get many requests, but that helping street children is their top priority. And seriously - how many street children are there in the world that specialize in acrobatics? I've got to figure we are a shoe-in for some help from them. This could not be a more perfect match. I've just got to write up an effective proposal. Wish me luck. And please check out their website. www.tunahaki.com

This weekend I'm going to spend a night with a Maasai Warrior tribe where we will sacrifice a goat. (They're going to sacrifice the goat whether I go or not, so I figure what the heck...) They are one of the oldest tribes in Africa. I've been reading a great biography of the continent, and I'm learning that mankind was born very near to where I am. Australopithecus, Homo Sapiens... it all started here, and we are all descended from one woman who lived on these lands. When I read these chapters at sunrise (I've been getting up early and going out to read on the water tower - with a great view of Kilimanjaro), I have to admit, I sorta get the chills. It's so easy to picture early man evolving here. It's hard to explain, but there's something about the land here that makes you feel very close to the planet and to history. It's a very different feeling from back home.

Salama.

So this is my project: to bring 10 orphans from the small village of Moshi, Tanzania to the United States for a 2-3 week exchange program. When I olunteered in Africa over Christmas, I promised 10 of the orphans at the TunaHAKI Centre for Street Kids that I would get the to the United States for a visit. You heard me - I PROMISED THEM. You see, these orphans specialize in acrobatics and have formed a pretty terrific little performing group. I want to bring them to the U.S. to study with professional acrobats, and to perform at fundraising events that I will organize. They need a permanent home, so the goal is to raise money to build them a new and improved shelter, with running water, and a theatre so people can come and see them perform. The trip to the U.S. will not only help raise funds, but it will help them back home. Word will spread like wildfire about their trip, and more local hotels and tour groups will invite them to perform (meaning more revenue), and more kids will want to join the shelter (meaning the rescue of more kids from the dangerous streets). I have found someone who wants to film a documentary about the kids and the trip here (provided I raise the funds to get them here) - so that eventual film will help raise awareness. I'm also hoping that if they come, I can get them some news coverage (People magazine, or The Today Show, etc..) I mean, it's not every day that acrobat orphans from the streets of Africa come to the United States, right? I am looking for ideas on where to go to raise the money for the trip. The airfare is the most expensive part. Once they're here, they can stay with families… local restaurants will donate meals, etc. Here's who I've contacted so far: 1) Circque du Soleil. I'm waiting to hear. 2) A nonprofit acrobatics school in San Francisco (Acro Sports). They are very excited about the project, and have agreed to solicit contributions from their clients, as well as train the kids from TunaHAKI during their visit. (This is very heartening, especially since I found this school just by surfing the web and sending a blind email.) 3) I will put together a short video to show at local rotary clubs, churches, etc… to try and get donations for the trip. The kids have expressed an interest in meeting other poor children like themselves when they come to visit, so I will see if I can have them perform for homeless youth groups in the Los Angeles area… but this is something I still have to look into. I am forming a 501(c)(3) nonprofit charity and I will have a website up and running in a couple weeks. Once that happens, I will be able to take donations via Paypal or by check. Until then, I'm trying to find other contacts… corporations who might be inclined to help Africa, or street kids, or acrobats… Media or PR contacts who might want to get involved… These kids are so special. They just melt your heart. And so disciplined and well behaved! It's so hard to believe the traumas they have overcome. They are all little heroes and heroines. If anyone has any thoughts, please pass them my way. I'm willing to pursue any leads, no matter how remote the chance… And if you don't have any ideas, I'm happy just to have your love and support on this mission. And I am indeed a man on a mission…